Sunday, January 19, 2014

Bethlehem

We went to Bethlehem today. We started at the grotto of the Shepherds where we had mass. Actually, I should say a grotto of the Shepherds because there are two, both with the ruins of Byzantine monasteries.  They are in the same general vicinity, and the one we went to was the Catholic site.  Bethlehem is part of the West Bank, and both sites sadly have impressive views of the security barricade and an illegal settlement.  We had mass there, and then were off to lunch.  After lunch we went to one of the tourist trap olive tree carving stores, but I successfully resisted the urge to buy things.

From there we went to the Church of the Nativity, which is literally falling apart.  The original Byzantine basilica built by St. Helena was destroyed by the Samaritans, but it was rebuilt by Justinian, and his building still stands.  The grotto of the Nativity under the high altar is very moving.  We Catholics have only one altar there, but we have an adjoining church, St. Catherine's which is well maintained and roughly the same size. In "our" basement (which really cuts back under the main church) there are a series of caves and if you take two rights, you end up in front of the tomb of St. Jerome.   Jerome came to Bethlehem to learn Hebrew and write the Vulgate, and his cell is right next to the tomb.  I and a couple others have a devotion to Jerome so it great to pray there.
The main nave. They are in a two year project to restore the roof before it collapses (more).
The group in the grotto of the Nativity
The tomb of St. Jerome. As the sign says, his bones were here "olim" (once).
Being a popular saint means your final resting placing isn't very final (instead your relics are carried off for devotion).

Finally we stopped by this Milk Grotto place, where according to tradition the holy family stopped hike fleeing to Egypt. Mary feed Jesus there, and a drop of her milk fell on the ground which turned the rock white.  It is an odd legend, but there are many anecdotal miracles, particularly for fertility, from the site.
The church
The icon over the altar at the site
Tomorrow we are going by foot over the mount of Olives starting at the Church of All Nations, then all the way to Bethel, but my blister has closed so it should be fun.

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